WHAT IS PEPTIDES IN COSMETICS?
On sale you can find many cosmetics containing peptides in the composition.
Peptides are compounds of amino acids (up to 10 amino acids in a chain) - small sections of proteins. Since their size is smaller than the size of proteins, they have greater maneuverability. Because of this, they are both the active substance and the delivery vehicle for other components in the deeper layers of the skin.
A significant advantage of them is that they are relatively stable in the composition of cosmetic formulas.
Depending on the amino acids that make up the peptide, they have a diverse effect on the skin. For example, can:
- * Activate the synthesis of elastin and collagen in the skin;
- * Reduce the destruction of collagen fibers;
- * Block oxidative stress;
- * Activate the restoration of layers of the epidermis;
- * Facilitate the transport of copper to the skin cells;
- * Reduce wrinkles, restraining mimic activity ...
What are peptides in cosmetics:
- * Signal peptides - increase the synthesis of elastin and collagen in the skin, give a signal to the cells for active work. The effect is the reduction of wrinkles that have arisen as a result of skin wilting or photoaging. Example: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl).
- * Remodeling peptides - control the proper assembly of collagen. After all, skin wilting occurs not only because of the decrease in the number of fibers, but also by their orderly arrangement. Effect - improving the density and elasticity of the skin. Example: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline (Decorinyl).
- * Barrier peptides - stabilize and transport the necessary compounds to the deeper layers of the skin (for example, copper, which plays a large role in enzymatic reactions).
- * Neuropeptides - with repeated application they give an effect similar to the effect of Botox. Gently relax the muscles, slow down the transfer of impulses from the nerve endings. Muscle relaxants reduce the expression of only mimic wrinkles. Examples: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Acetyl Hexapeptide-3.
- * Stimulating peptides - stimulate the synthesis of proteins responsible for the connection between the outer layer of the skin (epidermis) and the deeper (dermis), which weakens with age. Thus, the border is recreated and compacted. Example: Hexapeptide-10 (Serilisine).
Features of the use of peptide cosmetics:
1. Age: there is no clear criterion. Approximately 35 years, depending on the condition of the skin.
2. Concentration: they are effective even at low concentrations.
3. PH level: in order for peptides to work in cosmetics, the pH should be 4-7 (neutral or slightly acidic). It is not recommended to apply them simultaneously with AHA-acids, since the acidity of the skin changes dramatically and peptide bonds are destroyed.
4. Features of the application: many cosmetologists recommend using peptide cosmetics courses. (2-3 months, then take a break).
5. Result: it is not instantaneous - the effect appears after about a month of constant use.
